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Sea Kayaking South Manitou in a day

johnfleming — Wed, 11 Aug 2010 14:04:57 +0000

Glen Haven – South Manitou – Glen Haven

8/4/10

posted by John Fleming

It’s 8am on Cannery Beach, Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore. It’s me, a chain smoking heavy equipment operator, and nobody else. He says that no overweight tourists will be at the beach until about 11, and he wants to lift the cannery up off the ground before they get there. By the end of the day, my body and physics degree will both agree that the crane and I have each expended about the same amount of total energy. To which my liberal arts education replies, “but I have been across the sea.”

In the grand tradition of doing things my mother would not approve of, I want to paddle out and back to South Manitou in a day. It’s not the longest paddle, about an 8 mile crossing, but it is exposed. The last time I did something like this, I didn’t see a soul from the time I left the highway until I got back to shore at the end of the day, which was cool but a little nerve wracking. At least today I get to talk to chain smoking guy, which takes the edge off before I launch the boat into the surf.

Today is a beautiful, clear morning, with 15 knots blowing from the North with gusts to 20. The day before had 4’ surf out of the west, and I was able to get a couple of decent rides in the surf kayak off the beach in Charlevoix. The weather report for this morning says 2-4’. What the report doesn’t convey is that there are still 2-4’ waves coming from the west, plus the 2-4’ waves coming from the North. If you do the math, that’s not really 2-4’. Off shore, this translates into arrhythmic sloshing, with big peaks occasionally obscuring the Manitous. I choose the GL paddle, because I it feels good into a headwind. I keep my eyes fixed on the South Manitou lighthouse. I’ve never gotten seasick, but I’m not taking any chances. After a time, the headwind is wearing on me, the island doesn’t seem to be getting any closer, and I keep dragging my fingertips in the water to check that I am still moving. I alternate between wondering what the hell I am doing out here, are my kids going into the waves in Charlevoix without lifejackets on, am I going to develop tendonitis, and should I really have left shore with the GL paddle in my hands? The need to throw my right shoulder into the occasional oncoming wave brings me back to the moment, and at least I can grin at the wave forecast.

Two and a half hours later, I am visiting the 1960 wreck of the Francisco Morazan, in the wind shadow of South Manitou island.

After this, my plan is to head over to visit the lighthouse and maybe take a nap. Near the lighthouse I encounter a distinct sewage smell, and hordes of biting flies. I walk the shore, in constant motion, swatting myself like a penitente. My Freya-style sexy fuzzy rubber pants keep the flies off my legs, but are making me overheat. (sorry, no pics) My last act before launching is to rip off the pants. Big mistake; hundreds of flies descend on my sweaty legs. (sorry again, no pics) I jump in my boat and leave shore, but I can never get all the flies out of my cockpit before getting on the sprayskirt. I paddle on, feel bites on my legs, open my skirt, flush out a few flies, quickly close the skirt. Repeat. Repeat. About a half mile offshore, I jump in the water and flood my cockpit to remove the flies. Brilliant.

Rather than take the most direct course back. I paddle east for a mile or so, out of the wind shadow of the islands, so that I can surf downwind back to Cannery Beach. The waves have cleaned up a bit. I stare at the bow toggle. Each time the bow drops, I lean forward, dig in, and surge ahead. Compared to the slog out, I can’t believe how fast the islands are receding, and how fast the mainland is approaching. In less than an hour and a half, I surf all the way back to the (now) crowded beach, broach at the last second, sideways high-brace surf-landing with a ceremonious ‘thump’. I feel everybody’s eyes on me, impressed by my skillful arrival.

(To be honest, this is quite a bit different than my re-entry earlier in week. Returning after my ‘reconnaissance’ paddle for this trip, I wet-exit and float on my back to cool off, until I realize that tourists are swimming out to “rescue me”.)

10 Year Anniversary of Kayaking Life

kwikle — Wed, 09 Dec 2009 21:40:14 +0000

I’ve come a long way since I started kayaking in 2000. I clearly recall the day I tried a kayak for the first time on Thumb Lake in northern Michigan. My brother in law Shawn Denton put me in his brand new Dagger Seeker and pushed me off the beach. I glided easily over the surface of a clean blue-green lake with a sandy bottom. The water mirrored the sky. Watching my wake, water slid easily under the hull as I applied power to the paddle was as close to magic as I’d ever come. I paddled in and out of the coves of that small inland lake.

The horizon of my life totally changed in that instant from one that was known, to one that was limitless. The freedom and ability to maneuver the craft captured me tight as a spiders nest. I think my family probably hoped and prayed it would be a passing interest or fad. Ten years later this has obviously not been the case.

Some would argue that a healthy mind would not obsess so heavily on a “hobby”. Is it a hobby?

My online dictionary says that a hobby is this,

“an activity or interest pursued for pleasure or relaxation and not as a main occupation”

Well that doesn’t sound like kayaking as I know it. Anyone who has paddled with me has known that I am not seeking pleasure or relaxation. It is not my main occupation, so one out of three.

So what does the dictionary say about obsession.

“Compulsive preoccupation with a fixed idea or an unwanted feeling or emotion, often accompanied by symptoms of anxiety.”

Compulsive preoccupation is dead on, anyone who has caught me looking at the webcam would agree with that. Is it an unwanted feeling or emotion, or accompanied with anxiety… no.

So where does that leave us, maybe somewhere in the unhealthy balance between obsession and hobby?

How can one sum up whether ten years of kayaking has been bad or good for me?

Negatives first:

Money spent on kayaking.
Time away from family.
Periodic risk to life and limb.

Positives second:

Friends and social network otherwise unknown to me
Exercise
Time outside
Time away from computer
Travel to some of the most beautiful places on earth
Unified focus, or time spent focusing on one thing, one day at a time
New and interesting perspective on life
Periodic risk to life and limb

So of I could make kayaking free and bring my family with me every time, life would be great, maybe…

Everyone has their own agenda at home, and that’s as it should be. It’s about finding the balance. As has often been the subject of this blog. Laura, Gabriel, and Isabella are as into kayaking as they want to be. Me, I am as into kayaking as one can be, bordering on obsession.

Here are the things that I would never have experienced if it had not been for that fateful ride in my brother in law’s kayak in 2000.

Pukaskwa National Park
Lake Superior Provincial Park
Silver Islet to Rossport
Inishbofin and Inishark Islands
Sea Kayaking under the Golden Gate Bridge
Manitou Islands
Kayak Surfing Waves in excess of 12 feet on Lake Michigan
Kayak Surfing with dolphins in San Diego
Kayak Surfing with Sea Lions in Santa Cruz
Sunrise over the Pacific with perfect peely surf under pure blue skies
Paddling under the full moon on Lake Michigan
Sunsets over Lake Michigan while surfing storms on Lake Michigan

Here are some things I’ve learned in those ten years.

Know your limits.
Test your limits within a reasonable margin of safety.
Always have a backup plan.
Have a backup plan for your backup plan.
No such thing as too much gear, only too little warm clothing.
Never cook with your stove in between your legs.
Your co-workers are only marginally interested in your kayaking exploits.
Family never cares that you had a bad swim and missed dinner, they just want you to cook dinner.
Waves are much smaller in video and pictures than they appear while surfing.
Talk less paddle more.
Take each day, one day at a time.
Focus on one thing at a time.
But keep the big picture in mind.
Remember where you parked.
No one looks cool in a drysuit.
Always buy the best gear when it comes to warmth and survival.
Always be where you say you will be when your mother is involved.

Full Moon Paddle Lake Michigan August 5th

kwikle — Thu, 30 Jul 2009 17:45:08 +0000

Where: Dog Beach 13 Ave Put in South Haven.

View Larger Map

When: August 5th 2009 8:00 PM.

Distance: Up to you.

What to bring: Some form of Coast Guard Approved lighting to ensure safety on the water. Usual safety gear. (Lifejacket). Libations for afterward on the beach.

Please watch the weather, August can be unpredictable and wavy!

See the pictures from last month’s full moon paddle.

Guest Bloggers new blood for Go Kayak Now!

kwikle — Mon, 20 Apr 2009 16:37:23 +0000

Part of the changeover from KeithWikle.com to Go Kayak Now was a hope that new perspectives could be added to the site. I’ve had my eye on a couple of paddlers for articles and updates for the site.

One of the first is a fellow mid-westerner, Ohioan Marius Asipauskas. I met Marius at one of our Surf events in Northern Michigan, that alas turned out to be a non-event, as so many planned surf events do. Marius is a proficient paddler in his own right.

Anyone who has watched Marius paddle can see a brain surgeon at work. His forward stroke is textbook, without appearing textbook. Marius makes a lot of things look effortless. To boot Marius is very analytical, the sort of analytical that is mind boggling to mere mortals; because he is also literally a NASA rocket scientist.

To quote Tom Waits, “what I do is sort of falling down stairs on purpose, what he does is brain surgery.”

I hope to have more insights from Marius as the year progresses. His first will be an analysis of a seemingly effective t-rescue.

Keith Wikle

Sleeping Bear Surf Kayak Fest September 19-21 2008

kwikle — Thu, 07 Aug 2008 18:18:26 +0000

Surf Kayaking Event September 19-21

Michael Gray of Uncommon Adventures will be hosting the Flotnar Sea Farers Assembly now known as Sleeping Bear Surffest. Kayak Surfers, Kite Surfers and Board Surfers Come on Up!!!!

The weekend will be hosted at Moonshadow Herb Farm. Space is limited to 30 participants. I will be signing up and bringing surf kayaks for those that would like to try their hand at a dedicated surf craft on the Great Lakes. Let us pray for the wind to make it necessary.

Meals are potlucks with main courses provided by Uncommon Adventures. The accommodations are tent camping! Moonshadow Herb farm is a private camp with hot showers, sauna, wooded tent area, covered outdoor kitchen, covered dining and fire pit. It’s located about 1 mile from Lake Michigan here in the heart of Sleeping Bear Country.If you need to rent camping gear call Michael! (866-882-5525).

Note Very Important
Michael will be sending specific directions and other info about meals after registration.

Video – Are you a Kayak Asshole?

kwikle — Tue, 15 Jul 2008 19:14:59 +0000

Are You a Kayak Asshole? Video

I am off to Grand Marais for the GLSKS Symposium tomorrow morning. I hope there is surf like last year. I am excited to do some instruction and work with Steve Scherrer on a class.

I have been trying to write more articles and do less “posting”. However this particular video found through questionable means is possible the best thing I have ever seen from user submitted video.

And to answer my own non-paddling friends inevitable question, yes I know I am the person described in the video, minus the SUV.

So for those of us who are too focused on paddling, maybe go out and drink some beers, play some frisbee, and chill the hell out!!!

First 4 mile run since hernia repair in April

kwikle — Wed, 09 Jul 2008 13:23:00 +0000

First Four Mile Run after hernia repair

I tore my tendon 5 weeks after my hernia repair surgery at my first Ultimate Frisbee game of the season. I was able to keep cycling even with the torn tendon. The doctor said the flexion and extension would bother it. The stabilizing needs of running however were painful and out of the question anyway. I began to feel some imaginary weight and some real weight dragging me down each day I wasn’t running.

Cycling, though I love it, is not the same as running. Cycling is a different type of awareness and fitness. I love them both. I’m not sure I could live without either. But I know I would be in the looney bin without running. I suited up after work, feeling confident that I would take it easy and turn around if the tendon hurt. I followed my normal after work route across the north end of Kalamazoo. I was literally weeping with happiness by the time I hit mile one out of four. It’s safe tp say I place way too much value on this activity. But it’s my life.

Running is not like cycling, or kayaking, it is a safety net, a place to vent, it is the padded room where all my anxiety and fear are pounded out with no intermediary. A place where schemes are hatched, plans made, thoughts held dear, memories rebounded, grief reconciled, love and redemption found, and it is entirely independent of weather, equipment, or external forces. I can run in a rainstorm, a whiteout, 10 degree weather with 3 feet of snow, or ninety nine degree heat. I do not need a running partner, or encouragement, I do not need praise or reward, it is not to impress or show off for anyone, it is entirely between me and the road.

At times I feel like my body has failed me, but in my heart I know it has not. Sometimes things are taken away to teach compassion. Now that perhaps I can continue for some time, I don’t know how long, I will be more thankful for each mile, for each step my body gives back.

I have to offer thanks also to Laura for enduring my confinement. Certainly it must feel like she lives with a lunatic in the tower when I am not running.

As additional food for thought, check out the copy from this new Pearl Izumi ad campaign. I’ve been reading online how most people hate it. Personally I identify with it. I guess if they wanted to sway people over who are not runners, maybe this wasn’t the way to do it. But if they were trying to create a brand impression for the runners that are already out there, they got my attention. I think the copy is genius.

WMCKA Sea Kayak Symposium 2008-My Home is The Sea

kwikle — Thu, 29 May 2008 15:37:53 +0000

WMCKA Sea Kayak Symposium 2008 My Home is the Sea

Every year I attend the WMCKA Sea Kayaking Symposium it takes me a few days to absorb the impact of what it means to me. It is easy to say this happened and that happened. It is also easy to say this is the one thing that it meant, to go for the grand recit. What is infinitely harder is to say what it meant in smaller terms that make up the big picture. For my part WMCKA means a lot to me, as it is a culmination of planning efforts and coordination with the Symposium Committee, the WMCKA governing board, and a governing of my own desires for a great symposium.

I’d been trying to get Shawna Franklin and Leon Somme to come to our symposium since about 2005. Finally this year it worked out for both parties. This alone made me very happy in my heart. We decided to plan an instructor update prior to Symposium. This event was very well attended by our instructor group.

Shawna and Leon suited up and got us all out on the water asking us to paddle across Duck Lake and turning upwind. Their approach was to allow us to find our own way. They asked us to find five ways to turn upwind and simply let us paddle. We all came back with about seven ways to paddle upwind. The objective here it seems was to give us an objective, and allow us to interact with our environment, and then come up with our own conclusions. Based on the level of skill and experience each person has, they will come up with a variety of ways to deal with the environment. Only after we had tried a few things did Shawna and Leon call us in to have us give our ideas about what worked and what didn’t. Then after we had told them what we thought, they finally gave us their input. It was a really interesting way to teach a class. They barely spoke and allowed all of us to teach ourselves, each other, and finally when all that was done they gave us some pointers.

Derrick and a lot of the instructors were very juiced up about the bracing and rolling progression Shawna and Leon were sharing. This progression starts in a low brace, then high brace, and finally rolling. It focuses on starting the paddler on their back. Shawna and Leon have been using it with a high success rate in Washington. I would love to see a video of this progression a couple more times.

One of the more interesting points of the instruction for me was a paddle power demonstration. Shawna and Leon had us pair up with another paddler and link in tail to tail with another paddler on a contact tow. One paddler would use a euro paddle, the other would use a wing paddle or a euro paddle. The objective was to see who would tow who with the different paddle. I was paired off with Alec Boyd Peshkin who is my size and of equal power and skill. We started out with my carbon fiber greenland paddle and his werner shuna. Invariably the euro paddle would quickly overpower the Greenland paddle. We switched back and forth with the same results. We then used an epic wing and the Greenland paddle. It was dead even on these two paddles, I was surprised by this. We then switched to the wing and the euro. Again the euro paddle started dragging the paddler with the wing around.

I’ve held a not very scientific or empirical bias that the Euro and the Greenland style paddle were pretty much the same under these conditions. But after this I am not convinced. Doug Van Doren and Steve Bailey experienced the same results. Though Steve Bailey is a very powerful paddler and much bigger than Doug. Food for thought!!

A few of us headed out to Lake Michigan to paddle in the wind and waves afterwards. My inguinal hernia let me know pretty quickly that it was too soon for this type of exertion. I was left in the dust within a few minutes. I managed to take a few pictures regardless.

This was the point of the weekend where my mental state went in the drink. As a person I am competitive, gregarious, and outgoing. I found it very hard to be the slowest man on the water. It was a knife like jab in my belly to be unable to lead the pack when there was wind and waves to be had. My greatest joy in life is to be flying down wave with the wind at my back. To watch others easily out pace me felt like a clumsy root canal from a sadistic dentist with no anesthetic. I find I am a very poor spectator.

Once on sight at the Symposium in my spectator status I observed that the energy and enthusiasm Shawna and Leon exerted was as palpable as the pollen in the air. They were the first to be suited up to paddle and often the very last off the water. They were omnipresent and engaged in a way I have not seen any other instructors behave. You could tell that they loved being on the water, loved kayaking. And this enthusiasm melted over to the instructors, and the participants.

They also participated in the rodeo, and I saw kindred spirits, (I love a rodeo) in their competitive fun loving nature in the races, rolling contest, and passion to be involved, in the thick of things. Leon may have been channeling my wounded spirit when he and two other racers tackled one another into the shallows. What more could one ask for besides a rugby style tackle in a drysuit?

My grand recit for the weekend was observing Shawna and Leon as a couple. They spent every moment happily in each other’s company. I can say with some authority that this is very rare. You rarely saw one without the other. This sort of affection and dedication was so genuine one could hardly not feel it’s contagious gravity. I found myself more calm, more open towards friends, Laura, and the symposium in general. It seems to be the sort of bond you only read about in books, or see in movies. And perhaps this is not unlike kayaking, where you only get out of it what you put into it. And if this is any indication, the relationship and their kayaking seemed to have an effortless grace. Meaning there has probably been a lot of hard work on both ends.

Their slide show presentation on the Queen Charlotte Islands or Haida Gwai was fantastic. This expedition took place on the inside and outside of this island group. The outside is right on the edge of the continental shelf. The unbroken Pacific Ocean has no barrier between swell generation and the islands. So the full force of the world’s largest ocean breaks on these islands. Justine Curgenven went with Shawna and Leon and filmed the trip, so look for it in the next installment of This is the Sea.

One of Leon’s opening statements about the trip has been firmly cemented in my mind.
“You will never have enough money, you will never have enough vacation time, you just have to go.” Too bad that is too big to get as a tattoo.

I actually had many many participants and beginner paddlers come up and tell me how great the presentation was. That was a first. It is further proof that the energy you give to something is very real and palpable.

I hope to be able to find someone, or somebody as dedicated, enthusiastic and as skilled as Shawna and Leon for next year. I know there are some folks I would like to ask to visit us on Big Blue Lake. Some small part wonders if this may have been the proverbial summit of our little symposium.

I will leave you with a song by Will Oldham (aka Bonnie Prince Billy) that probably explains the energy we all feel about kayaking, instruction, and a life full of adventure, either small or big.

My Home Is the Sea-Bonnie Prince Billy Lyrics

I have often said
that I would like to be dead
in shark’s mouth

a woman swimming under
her warm breath sendin’ a thunder
on two parts south

and love is stripped and frayed
and duty is delayed
until next life

someone has my mind
holding yes so kind
it is my wife

and my home is the sea
my home is the sea
look not for me

my home is the sea
disaster flies upon me
and i sleep
we can see the house lights
colored from a distance
for a party as a dream

my tongue will into me
my arms unfold these seeds
cause im a strong man

and do not love my tummy
is round and firm and funny
and thats what i am

my home is the sea
my home is the sea

i am under your spell
you will have me i reckon
and the drowning this town
as a drowning i welcome

i know nothing and im over joyed
i know nothing and im over joyed
i know nothing and im over joyed

god gave you life and thought
now its ours to waste
i have the finest love
and the finest taste

see her when im home
i am home

you are home

Greg Stamer Sea Kayak Circumnavigation of Newfoundland

kwikle — Tue, 20 May 2008 15:31:27 +0000

Greg Stamer will attempt to circumnavigate Newfoundland by Sea Kayak starting June 1st 2008. He needs a little assistance getting his Nigel Dennis Greenlander Pro kayak transported there.

Greg is now a veteran of an Icelandic circumnavigation with Freya Hoffmeister. Their circumnavigation set a record for the number of days (33 days).

If you think you can help transport Greg’s Kayak read the request below from Greg Stamer himself. Leave a comment on the blog here or head over to the Qajaq USA site and comment on the forum post.

All,
I’m preparing for a solo circumnavigation of Newfoundland starting this June and need some help with kayak transport. The container with my kayak (NDK Greenlander Pro) is delayed. It might arrive in time, but I need to make alternate plans just in case. Plan “B” is to use a kayak from Tom Bergh’s stock in Maine. I need help getting the boat from Tom’s shop to Newfoundland (ideally St. John’s but anywhere will do).

If anyone is traveling from Maine to Newfoundland between now and the second week of June, and would like to help by transporting an extra boat, please give me a shout! Depending on when you are traveling, I might be able to join you in Maine and help with gas and expenses, but if this is not an option, just getting the kayak to Newfoundland will be a major help.

Alternatively, if anyone knows of another economical way for me to get the boat from Maine to Newfoundland (short of renting a car), please let me know.

Thanks!

Greg Stamer

Eskimo rolling-Form over strength.

kwikle — Mon, 21 Jan 2008 03:23:17 +0000

My forward forward rolls have been suffering it seems from a lazy form. I finally hit the sweet spot this weekend by really tucking in tight to the fore deck. By not coming as far off the deck of the kayak when I initiate the sweep for my hand roll I was coming up with more ease than in the past. I think after another session I may be able to begin working back towards using a mitten and not the norsaq.
Cheri Perry had cautioned me against the commonplace arm thrust on this roll and to concentrate on the abdominal crunch and tuck.

Lo there did I feel the tummy burn on this roll…