When summer ends, and the tourists go home. I get the beach back. The wind starts to blow, and we get waves. On very fortunate days we get 6-8 foot waves like I got last night. I love the energy in the parking lot as all the working stiffs show up unloading surfboards, suiting up in wetsuits, and running down to get in the water. The air temps are dropping, but the water is warm (70s). I suit up in neo shorts and paddle jacket, no pogies, and head down to break out in the Bullitt X S. I get to the outside where I see clean six foot faces rolling in that peel from north to south slowly because the wind is blocked by the pier. And I start hearing this song in my head!
It’s hard to care about pretty much any problem when you’re surfing. And even though daylight is fading fast, I keep seeing these beautiful burnished gold and bronze sunsets that seem to last forever. I kept thinking people should honestly be paying thousands of dollars a minute for this experience. So I personally said farewell to the pressure kids last night. Unfortunately, sunset didn’t last forever, I had to call it once I was surfing in the dark.