Stolen Moments

Funny how things move in cycles.

When the wind started to howl, I woke to check the weather report and the surf cam. Making promises of future familial devotion and activity to Laura, I peeled out of the driveway towards South Haven.
How am I still married, is anyone’s guess.

For once I was rewarded for all of the risk.

Steep glassy six to seven foot waves greeted me on the outside. The wind was gusting, but manageable once out. I felt a strange sense of uneasiness as I was taking my first set of rides. Not sure why. I managed to settle down. I started to get my diagonal takeoff dialed in. I got three or four beautiful rides. I also quickly got a sense of which waves were going to dump and close out.

I tried to get a picture of a curling wave with my paddle underneath my arm. I was rewarded with a shot, but succinctly nuked by a good size wave. I managed to roll up with my paddle and retrieved my camera from it’s dummy cord.

I caught a series of good rides on the north side of the pier. I began to feel the need to get home to fulfill familial obligations, I returned on time.

One Comment

  1. Is that tape holding your helmet together?