Bad Mojo-Broken Paddle

Some days you can’t get a break, and then you do…

I seem to be on a run of bad luck that won’t quit. I’ve finally gotten all the right gear, the right craft, and enough skill to surf big fall storm waves. But now I just can’t seem to get some good luck. I went on a Saturday afternoon, (unheard of in the realms of storm surfing) and suited up. I had a nice northerly break where I could get out easily. Off the pier were some monsters. I caught a couple of ok rides where I had to paddle hard to get on. And then I caught some scary ones where I intentionally capsized to let a monster ten foot wave break over me. I more often than not found myself accidentally righted and then surfing in anyway. I caught one absolutely beautiful ride where a good seven or eight foot wave came up, and I was finally in the right spot at the right time, so I carved down the face diagonally toward the pier, and then saw more green water to my right so I cut back away from the wall and kept surfing all the way to the beach.

When I broke back out I was out maybe 30 yards off the pier. A huge steep dumper took me by surprise. I capsized intentionally to let it go over me, but it took me and threw me from the top to the bottom, it felt like I was thrown a full ten feet in the air and I hit hard, I was knocked into the cockpit luckily but I think the tunnel on my drysuit let in some water. I was sinking hard to stern when I rolled up. I thought for sure the boat was cracked somewhere at the stern. I paddled the flooded boat all the way in, but I took the skirt off to level it out.

I got it dumped out and inspected the boat. No damage. So I looked out there and thought ok, I can’t let it beat me. So I got back in and headed out. I kept thinking about the one sweet ride. I was in exactly the right spot when another huge wave broke where it shouldn’t have been breaking. I capsized intentionally again. The turbulence was incredible. I held onto the paddle for dear life thinking, “hold on, hold on, it’ll pass.” And then my right paddle blade snapped off from my Lendal four piece. After my experience with hand rolling up to find myself presented with a no-win situation, I just got pissed and wet exited.

I swam the boat in again, and a boardie collected my wreckage of foam outfitting shook loose from the boat.

After all my experiences surfing, I’ve sort of gotten it into my head, perhaps erroneously that if I held onto my paddle and could roll up I’d be safe. To have my paddle snapped off by a wave sort of weakens my confidence in that particular piece of equipment. Lendal paddlok’s are supposed to be sort of indestructible aren’t they?

Am I out of my element chasing storms and 10 foot waves in a small kayak? Are my dreams for a perfect ride at my home break a fools errand? Is it really just beyond me and my skill to do it?

I hope not. I hope it’s just some bad mojo that will pass.

??Some Days-U2
Some days are dry, some days are leaky
Some days come clean, other days are sneaky
Some days take less, but most days take more
Some slip through your fingers and onto the floor
Some days you’re quick, but most days you’re speedy
Some days you use more force than is necessary
Some days just drop in on us
Some days are better than others
Some days it all adds up
And what you got is not enough
Some days are better than others
Some days are slippy, other days sloppy
Some days you can’t stand the sight of a puppy
Your skin is white but you think you’re a brother
Some days are better than others
Some days you wake up with her complaining
Some sunny days you wish it was raining
Some days are sulky, some days have a grin
And some days have bouncers and won’t let you in
Some days you hear a voice
Taking you to another place
Some days are better than others
Some days are honest, some days are not
Some days you’re thankful for what you’ve got
Some days you wake up in the army
And some days it’s the enemy
Some days are work, most days you’re lazy
Some days you feel like a bit of a baby
Lookin’ for Jesus and His mother
Some days are better than others
Some days you feel ahead
You’re making sense of what she said
Some days are better than others
Some days you hear a voice
Taking you to another place??


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  3. Like hang gliding surfing probes you for weaknesses both physical and mental. Some days it will find some.

  4. You’re nuts anyway! LOL! So you’ve succumb to the breaking lendal problem too eh? Man I know that feeling! Seems to be a recent issue that I’ve seen more and more, hard to tell why. In the end though you got in and all was well.